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chrisnewton32 
Lift Op. 
Joined: Oct/09/2006 Online Status: Offline Posts: 53 |
 Topic: Board waxing/edge sharpeningPosted: Nov/01/2006 at 11:53pm |
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It is the start of my second season, and I was wondering, how often you should get your board waxed and sharpened. Sorry to sound like a noob, but hey I am.
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gsrrr
Expert Members 
shred ze gnar Joined: Aug/09/2006 Location: Los Angeles Online Status: Offline Posts: 10410 |
Posted: Nov/02/2006 at 3:01am |
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wax/and deburred... some say everytime you go and some say 3-4 times. some even say once a season depending on the base of your board. seach for "wax" there are a few threads on this subject.
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scorpio67
Lift Op.
Joined: Nov/03/2006 Location: 18 Online Status: Offline Posts: 45 |
Posted: Nov/04/2006 at 7:40pm |
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Depending on the type of board you ride will determine the type of base you have also the frequency you ride will also be part of the formula.
Usually the less expensive your board is the least amount of preventive maintenance it requires.e.g.the cheeper the quality of the board = the denser the base = the least amount of waxing -v- the higher quality = (moor bucks$$$) = the softer the base or more absorbent the base = frequent waxing required
I hope that helps, if you ever get confused or have any doubts WAX IT!!
 READ THIS FOR ALL THE CORRECT INFO
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no mater where you go ....there you are!
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Dr. Nu-Nu
Board Member 
Burton Logo Joined: Aug/13/2006 Location: 22 Online Status: Offline Posts: 12785 |
Posted: Nov/04/2006 at 8:17pm |
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After you ride a couple times and give your board a wax, you'll feel the difference.. u might get addicted and wax it every time u run thereafter or if you don't mind the negligible difference, you'll wax it every couple of times...
You can sharpen/detune once a season, really depends how much u ride in a season and the type of snow (power vs. ice).... You can tune ur edges when you feel like you can't carve as well or whenever u prefer.. It's all about preference and what u want.. I've gone through a whole season of 24 times cause i got real lazy. I was on the East Coast carving on ice.. my edges were so bad, I had to ride switch to keep my carving... not the best idea... As for bases.. There is extruded and sintered.. You'll find more park boards with extruded boards which are not as porous as sintered bases. This will make it less maintenance (waxing) and more durable for pipe/rails... Sintered bases are more porous so when you wax, it will seep into the board and make you glide ever so faster... So there you go, cheers mate! What kind of board do you ride? |
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scorpio67
Lift Op.
Joined: Nov/03/2006 Location: 18 Online Status: Offline Posts: 45 |
Posted: Nov/05/2006 at 8:56pm |
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166 santa cruze duo freedom w/ride e x series bindings
Also a 2007 Capita photo fetish 160 bad ass board
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no mater where you go ....there you are!
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chrisnewton32
Lift Op.
Joined: Oct/09/2006 Online Status: Offline Posts: 53 |
Posted: Nov/08/2006 at 12:21pm |
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05 Gnu Carbon High Beam 161W, 05 Burton Mission bindings, 05 Burton Freestyle boots
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brodster
Instructor 
What is there to say- Joined: Aug/05/2006 Online Status: Offline Posts: 3067 |
Posted: Dec/03/2006 at 1:05pm |
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These guys are right. It really depends. Rule of thumb: Every couple of times wax. If your base looks white and dry, wax. If your board edges feel dull sharpen them. A good way to test is to take the face of your thumb nail and rub against your edge. If a decent thumb nail flake comes off it's probably okay. If you can't get thumb nail to come off no matter how much you push, it's tune time.
Some of it comes down to preference. I am an edge freak and like very precise carves. I require my edges to be sharper all the time more than the average Joe. Also, I burn through wax on my edge area really quick compared to most people. I like to rail carved hard all day. The abrasive snow eats the wax alive in these regions. I have to wax more. Maybe every trip.
You need to balance your needs, your budget and time. Tuning can be pricey if you don't own care and takes time. Also everytime you sharpen, you are removing material. Professional racers often go through their edges before the board is worn they sharpen so much. It's part of the game.
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franzli
Ski Bum 
Joined: Dec/04/2006 Location: 60 Online Status: Offline Posts: 57 |
Posted: Dec/16/2006 at 11:03am |
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About waxing, I read a few guides and videos around the internet:
(might be helpful for anyone who searches up waxing in the forums) Video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eshjR_idDHY Tutorial http://snowboarding.about.com/cs/tuningTecnical/a/hotwax.htm http://www.ehow.com/how_3750_wax-snowboard.html http://www.abc-of-snowboarding.com/snowboards/how-to-wax.asp Anyways I have two questions, I just did my first hot wax by myself.. 1. How much wax do you actually let drip because I end up scraping a lot out... you know, save wax, save money 2. When scraping, do you actually scrap till no more wax can be scraped? Or is there a layer I'm supposed to do. |
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brodster
Instructor
What is there to say- Joined: Aug/05/2006 Online Status: Offline Posts: 3067 |
Posted: Dec/23/2006 at 9:37am |
Ideally, you are really only concerned with the wax that is absorbed into your base. So, along this logic, scrape off everything for maximum performance. However, some guys like to leave a little bit on to make it last longer.
Personally, I thin kregular waxing will let you scrape it all off without having to leave excess.
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hoon
Moderator
Guest Gear Expert Joined: Aug/28/2006 Location: RIGHT COAST Online Status: Offline Posts: 5543 |
Posted: Dec/26/2006 at 8:07am |
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in the interest of consolidating, i posted this elsewhere on SS.com but wanted to add it here as well.
prelude: crank the tunes or pop in a sick dvd. step 1. clean off the base with base cleaner, a wet paper towel, anything low key. step 2. heat up the iron (not too hot, somewhere between low and medium works) and grab your wax. step 3. drip the wax on the entire base.... there are a few methods, but down and back, down and back works fine. or the infamous figure 8. then spread the wax using the base of the iron. try to make sure it's an even coat, but you really don't have to be too picky. just make sure it is over the entire board. step 4: go upstairs, watch the dvd, rock out, go take a dump, crack a beer or pick your nose. step 5: if it's bluebird, make sure to scrape it before it cools. if it is anyone else, just let it cool. (in this case, let the wax sit for a while... like 30 minutes to an hour to make sure it really soaks in). step 6. scrape, scrape, scrape, scrape. step 7. use a steel brush, wax comb, or whatever to add those nice little groves in the base for water to rush out of. step 8. wipe down your stick and go do something else. what type of board are you riding? what is the base? i am starting to suspect that either you don't let your wax absorb into your base long enough, your wax stinks or the base material is not that great at absorbing wax. ps - factory wax doesn't last at all. especially if a board is sitting on the showroom floor for a while. you gotta remember that your board was probably produced in the summer. so even with the plastic, that base is drying out. of course i never wax my boards (seriously, i just take 'em out of the plastic and ride them), but i would never recommend that for a friend or customer. |
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2010? More Like 1910
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franzli
Ski Bum
Joined: Dec/04/2006 Location: 60 Online Status: Offline Posts: 57 |
Posted: Dec/28/2006 at 9:10am |
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Thanks for all the help!
I offered my friends for me to wax their boards for just the price of the wax and got to test a few things out! Well first, one board I semi-scraped it leaving a bit of wax there and he told me it felt slower but eventually picked up after the 2nd/3rd trip. Then I waxed another board and totally scraped everything and he found it to be really good first time through but after 4th or 5th time boarding the wax was pretty much gone. So in my experiencing of waxing, leave more wax, slower but lasts longer and scrape all, fast but lasts shorter |
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myke
Instructor
Joined: Jan/06/2007 Location: 18 Online Status: Offline Posts: 6744 |
Posted: Jan/06/2007 at 7:11pm |
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I find a lot of it has to do with conditions as well. If i know it's going to be colder - with crunchier harder snow, I have pretty good results leaving some extra on there. If it's going to be warmer/wetter with softer snow, i take it almost all off.
Also - on the note of using less wax to save money - a couple of things. First, when you scrape, the pile of wax shavings you have really isn't as much as you'd think. it looks like more cause it's not in a compact pressed form. It's like taking 10 sheets of paper, crumpling 'em up in loose balls. It looks like a lot, but it's really not. Once you do it for awhile, you'll get a better idea of exactly how much wax you need for good coverage, and won't have to saturate as much. (ie - less scraping afterwords)
The other thing, what i do from time to time is after i scrape i'll take the excess wax and toss it in a baggie. The next time i go to wax, i'll take and sprinkle it over my board, iron it real fast - and scrape it all off while it's still warm and mushy. You don't want to use a lot, just enough to absorb some of the heat, and create a thin layer - so you're not ironing dry spots on your board. It helps get some of the left over wax (especailly directly under the bindings) off the board before using a base cleaner.
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franzli
Ski Bum
Joined: Dec/04/2006 Location: 60 Online Status: Offline Posts: 57 |
Posted: Jan/10/2007 at 6:41pm |
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For sharpening, I hear that around 8 times on the mountain needs sharpening. Can anyone confirm and if so... I was checking out some sharpening tools and there are two degrees 88 and 90 whats the difference?
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myke
Instructor
Joined: Jan/06/2007 Location: 18 Online Status: Offline Posts: 6744 |
Posted: Jan/10/2007 at 9:38pm |
It really depends on the conditions you're riding. If you're riding in solid ice - 8 times might even be pushing it quite a bit depending on how hard you ride. If you're in soft cushy powder all the time, you could go 8 times and just need a little touch up over some rough spots and be fine.
Something else to keep in mind - you only have X amount of steel on your edges. Every time you sharpen/file/whatever - you're taking some of that steel off. Filing especailly takes a good bit of steel off the edges. If you over sharpen, you can go through your edges pretty quick.
There's all sorts of different combinations of edge degree you can use.
This site has a basic explination of it here:
Some boards now are starting to come with a little more variation in the edges. My girl's Salomon Maiden for example comes with a bit of a shift on the edge. There's 1.5 degrees on the base, and 1 degree on the sidewall edge. What this does is picks the base edge up off the surface of the snow a little bit, making it a bit more forgiving , and a little easier to maneuver.
The 1 degree taken off the sidewall edge maintains an *almost* 90 degrees (89.5 actually) to the base edge, which gives you the bite when you're taking turns at speed.
It's another one of those personal preferance/riding style things you can do to your board to get it exactly the way you want it.
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I'm here for the gangbang....
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hoon
Moderator
Guest Gear Expert Joined: Aug/28/2006 Location: RIGHT COAST Online Status: Offline Posts: 5543 |
Posted: Jan/11/2007 at 5:08am |
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What's people's best technique for detuning your edges? Specifically blunting them for rails? Right now I use a rock or whatever is handy. I am not looking to buy a sander/grinder, but was curious what people use....
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2010? More Like 1910
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SGT712
Local 
East Coast Rider Joined: Aug/13/2006 Location: 22 Online Status: Offline Posts: 1131 |
Posted: Jan/11/2007 at 5:42am |
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I use my teeth to detune.
Just kidding. Go with a file and follow up with a gummy stone. |
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myke
Instructor
Joined: Jan/06/2007 Location: 18 Online Status: Offline Posts: 6744 |
Posted: Jan/11/2007 at 11:01am |
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i don't really detune much - i like a nice sharp hard edge.
then again, I also don't spend much (any) time in the park :)
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I'm here for the gangbang....
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hoon
Moderator
Guest Gear Expert Joined: Aug/28/2006 Location: RIGHT COAST Online Status: Offline Posts: 5543 |
Posted: Jan/11/2007 at 12:47pm |
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i guess dull file is where it's at.
SGT - detune... not tune...  |
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2010? More Like 1910
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Jenn04
Lift Op.
Joined: Feb/13/2007 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 34 |
Posted: Feb/14/2007 at 4:41pm |
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I am reading all of these post but I am still confused. Please define detuning and tuning? Detuning is scraping away the sides with a file right? when you jib you want to detune, right? so then what is tuning?
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myke
Instructor
Joined: Jan/06/2007 Location: 18 Online Status: Offline Posts: 6744 |
Posted: Feb/15/2007 at 2:00am |
tuning is putting a very exact, sharp angle along the effective edge of your board.
What this does is give you more grip and more precice control at higher speeds, especailly in adverse conditions.
Think about when you first get a board, or you're looking at a board in a shop. If you run your finger down the edge - it's a very sharp clean smooth edge. When you lay down a turn - this edge is what's driving into the snow, and is what is guiding you along - almost like an ice-skate.
De-tuning is taking the sharpness out of that edge. The sharpness of the corner between your side edge and your base edge is what gives the board it's bite in the snow when you're laying down carves. If you're hitting rails or big park tricks - this bite can be a very bad thing. So if you take and run a file along the hard corner of your two edges, and dull that out a bit - it's not going to bite nearly as much. This makes landings a little easier, definately makes rails easier - but it comes at the cost of control elsewhere on the mountain.
Now, something else that you can do - and a lot more boards are starting to come this way, especailly freestyle boards - is bevel the edges up off the surface of the snow. Traditionally - most boards come with a 0 degree base and 0 degree side edge. Effectively making a 90 degree angle on the corner. This is going to catch like a bitch if you're hittin a rail, or you're not fully in control of what you're doing.
So - if you take the base edge, and bevel it 1-3 degrees upwards, you're lifting that corner off the plane of the base, and off the surface of the snow. If you bevel your side edge inward by the same degree - you're maintaing that 90 degree angle that holds the snow well - but you're picking it up so it doesn't catch so much. Sort of a little bit of the best of both worlds.
make sense?
this can help explain it a little bit better.
this site is more geared towords racing - but it's got good info.
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I'm here for the gangbang....
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Dr. Nu-Nu
Board Member
Burton Logo Joined: Aug/13/2006 Location: 22 Online Status: Offline Posts: 12785 |
Posted: Feb/15/2007 at 8:21am |
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Sinixstar: you couldn't have said it any better.. I would have tried to explain that in 5 sentences and would never have gotten it across like the way you did.. that deserves a thumbtack!
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Jenn04
Lift Op.
Joined: Feb/13/2007 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 34 |
Posted: Feb/15/2007 at 10:17am |
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thanks for the resposes guys, I have been watching alittle bit of tuning videos on youtube, can you guys tell me if this video is a good video to go by when tuning?
http://youtube.com/watch?v=iJd2teuD5tU The guy seems to know what he's talking about, I just want to make sure before i start scrapin my board away. |
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Dr. Nu-Nu
Board Member
Burton Logo Joined: Aug/13/2006 Location: 22 Online Status: Offline Posts: 12785 |
Posted: Feb/15/2007 at 10:46am |
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Transworld Magazine and Burton also have some very good tuning videos. Be sure to check them out in the video sections respectively.
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myke
Instructor
Joined: Jan/06/2007 Location: 18 Online Status: Offline Posts: 6744 |
Posted: Feb/15/2007 at 12:07pm |
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If you have a new board, and you're not sure about tuning - wait.
Get it out on the snow, get a feel for it, see how it rides. You may decide you don't want to de-tune too much.
Also - check the exact specs of your board, and see if it comes with a beveled base from the factory before you take a file to it.
Remember that once you detune or bevel your edges - you gotta take a LOT of steel off to get it back to a hard edge. In some cases you'll even need a base grind to get back.
Go in small steps, and be absolutely sure you want to do it before you get your file out.
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I'm here for the gangbang....
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Bundy
Lift Op.
Joined: Feb/16/2007 Location: United States Online Status: Offline Posts: 170 |
Posted: Apr/09/2007 at 3:51pm |
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Is it really necessary to buy Base Cleaner to clean the board prior to waxing?
How does Base Cleaner compare to just using a damp towel?
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Dr. Nu-Nu
Board Member
Burton Logo Joined: Aug/13/2006 Location: 22 Online Status: Offline Posts: 12785 |
Posted: Apr/10/2007 at 8:34pm |
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Base cleaner will pull out a lot more dirt and grime than a normal towel will.... Don't use it too much because it will take a lot of the good wax from your board and dry it out.
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jmw677
Lift Op.
Joined: Apr/10/2007 Online Status: Offline Posts: 9 |
Posted: Apr/10/2007 at 11:40pm |
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How often should you hot wax an extruded base as opposed to a sintered base? Do rub-on waxes last as long on extruded bases?
Thanks |
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myke
Instructor
Joined: Jan/06/2007 Location: 18 Online Status: Offline Posts: 6744 |
Posted: May/30/2007 at 10:49pm |
Rub-on waxes are typically crap. They'll last you maybe half a day if you're lucky.
Again, how often you wax really depends on how often/hard you ride - and the conditions you're riding in. If you're seein dry spots, or feel like you're losing speed for some unknown reason - it's time for a wax.
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I'm here for the gangbang....
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kimchijajonshim
Instructor
Bear Hugs! Joined: Nov/09/2006 Location: 39 Online Status: Offline Posts: 9970 |
Posted: Jun/01/2007 at 2:17pm |
I don't even know if hot-waxes are worth it for extruded bases. I was iron waxing my roommate's Ride Cue a few months ago and noticed minimal (or maybe even no) wax absorption compared to the sintered base boards owned by me and my other roommate. Rub-on waxes, I wouldn't even bother unelss you're really in a pinch... I notice marginal difference. Your best bet is a machine wax. Better than straight rub-on, but not as good as a true iron wax. Since the wax isn't going to get absorbed as well anyway, I'd go for that over the iron wax. |
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ROLL ON, BISHES.
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bastimret
Ski Bum
Joined: Jun/28/2007 Location: 9 Online Status: Offline Posts: 786 |
Posted: Jul/12/2007 at 8:47pm |
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Can you reccommend a good machine wax?
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kimchijajonshim
Instructor
Bear Hugs! Joined: Nov/09/2006 Location: 39 Online Status: Offline Posts: 9970 |
Posted: Jul/12/2007 at 9:51pm |
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A machine wax is done by a wax machine at a snow resort or shop...
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ROLL ON, BISHES.
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Dr. Nu-Nu
Board Member
Burton Logo Joined: Aug/13/2006 Location: 22 Online Status: Offline Posts: 12785 |
Posted: Jul/12/2007 at 10:01pm |
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mmm. the big mean green machine
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bastimret
Ski Bum
Joined: Jun/28/2007 Location: 9 Online Status: Offline Posts: 786 |
Posted: Jul/13/2007 at 5:02am |
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That makes sense.
But what about cost difference? I mean, the cost of a drip wax is just getting the wax, then the time to do it. How much does it cost to get a board machine waxed?
Also, any online stores you guys would reccommend for getting some waxing/tuning gear from? Not many stores that sell that kinda gear down here in Savannah, GA.
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bastimret
Ski Bum
Joined: Jun/28/2007 Location: 9 Online Status: Offline Posts: 786 |
Posted: Jul/18/2007 at 9:26pm |
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Guys? Anyone? Where do you reccommend buying wax from online?
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kimchijajonshim
Instructor
Bear Hugs! Joined: Nov/09/2006 Location: 39 Online Status: Offline Posts: 9970 |
Posted: Jul/18/2007 at 9:46pm |
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No clue. Do you have REI's around? I'd probably buy it from there and select in-store pick up. I haven't seen many pages with free wax.
As for what waxes are good, I use Toko... gets the job done, but I haven't used enough waxes to compare. In the future I'm planning on picking up Bluebird and also One Ball Jay. |
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ROLL ON, BISHES.
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scorpio67
Lift Op.
Joined: Nov/03/2006 Location: 18 Online Status: Offline Posts: 45 |
Posted: Jul/19/2007 at 10:52pm |
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http://www.racewax.com/servlet/StoreFront
the best wax for the money and anything els you need ....tools...ect!!
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no mater where you go ....there you are!
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bastimret
Ski Bum
Joined: Jun/28/2007 Location: 9 Online Status: Offline Posts: 786 |
Posted: Jul/22/2007 at 4:43pm |
There is one right down the road from our friends house in ATL that we usually stay at when we visit them. That's where I got my 686 pants last year, so I'll check them out next time we are up there.
Noticed that the CHB was waxed with oneballjay at the factory (at least that's what the sticker said) so maybe I'll stick with that for now.
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VTBear
Instructor
bear at beaver creek Joined: May/23/2007 Location: 34 Online Status: Offline Posts: 2527 |
Posted: Jul/28/2007 at 8:56pm |
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i just waxed my board today..
used a stick of ram as a scraper.. lol, how geek is that?? |
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kimchijajonshim
Instructor
Bear Hugs! Joined: Nov/09/2006 Location: 39 Online Status: Offline Posts: 9970 |
Posted: Jul/28/2007 at 9:18pm |
Pretty damn geeky. I hope it was cheap or 128 mb or something ridiculously small and useless like that. |
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ROLL ON, BISHES.
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VTBear
Instructor
bear at beaver creek Joined: May/23/2007 Location: 34 Online Status: Offline Posts: 2527 |
Posted: Jul/29/2007 at 8:44pm |
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i actually dont know...
hehe i didnt actually even look at it closely... ill do that later |
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dozer
Lift Op.
Joined: Dec/04/2006 Location: Eagle Valley Online Status: Offline Posts: 14 |
Posted: Jan/29/2008 at 3:56pm |
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You might as well use the tools available. I commend the improvisation!
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